Simon, I have approx. Am I missing something? . For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. No, I find the same size works well on everything for me. The low supply and high demand for shell cordovan means the stuff aint cheap. Also the Cavendish is my first pair of Crocketts and Im now inclined for more. Curious how your Alden full straps fit now? Personally, the single monkstrap in color 8 is my absolute favorite. Ashland Leather Co. 6.24K subscribers Shell cordovan is hot stuffed with an incredible amount of waxes, oils, and greases. Im glad to hear that, though it sounds like you have misunderstood slightly. Crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan. I think that shows how Alden from a make point of view is really mid-range or lower the expectations get rather inflated outside the US by the prices, and particularly the extra price of cordovan. Ah well, True. This particular pair of shoes is a pair owned by Tom from back in 2001. Cleverley made me some boots with cordovan around the bottom and a hatch grain calf at the top. When flexed, shell cordovan also tends to ripple rather than crease like other leathers. Im somewhat surprised that youve gotten over this aspect yourself and somewhat wish I could follow suit. Unfortunately Alden is also quite restrictive about international shipments and you cant order from the US to deliver to the UK. Not a good reason for poor quality but perhaps enabling factors. Not so sure about navy What are your thoughts? In the winter, I will wipe my shoes with a damp cloth at the end of the day to remove any salt, a Chicago-type climate concern. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. I dont have an email for them handy, but the owner has an insane shell collection and the store sells Alden including special makeups. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. Alex, To be honest Ive generally preferred the Alden cordovan. Heel pads I have found worthless so I am keen to try rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem. It seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather. Probably, yes, though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe size of course. Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. Priceless. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. I dont think they stock color #8, but usually have whisky and dark brown, which is a little different from Aldens Cigar brown. Dont think Im the only good source about cordovan though . The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. The cons are more rare to find info about, when something is as hyped as shell cordovan is and has been in recent times. The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. Color #8. I was in business. Thanks for your reply, Simon. What shoes should I wear with brown trousers? Do they actually do anything? If its something smarter, to wear with tailoring mostly, you might want it as fitted as a regular dress shirt. Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very well finished. The stacks on the heels Alden uses are of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet. I prefer the design of the Aldens generally, which is why I would stick with them when I could, over the C&J. Cordovan can feel heavy, certainly. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. If in doubt, Id tend towards this latter fit with something like denim. I cannot remember polishing them for the last 5 years or so of their life- just a quick rub down. Because shell cordovan reacts differently to lotions and other forms of leather care, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products. Its almost like youre wearing down and moulding the surface. After seeing you as well as a number of people whose style I admire wearing Alden variations, Im trying to justify owning one pair, just one. The guy knows where to find everything all over the world. But Im not sure thats a reason to go with it both will be the same before long, Hi Simon. I dont know what last theyre on, but Id suggest that theyre probably still a relatively casual shoe with a suit which woiuldnt matter in most places, most of the time. Next time youre in NY it might be worth the 2 hour flight to Atlanta to visit Sid Mashburns flagship store here. Im also a newcomer to shell cordovan, but I am hooked. Its usually mostly a combination of availability and then fashion. How would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color? The reason I did that was that Id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me. For me it was Wolverine 1000 Mile boots. Hi what are those abrasions in the crease of the St Crispins? I think the colour is perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown or color 8, yes, no issues there. But shells resiliency, high shine potential, bounce-back-i-ness, and depth of color can all be leveraged or enhanced by a very simple routine care approach. Thoughts on grained cordovan? Then there is the leather sole. How would you compare Alden & Edward Greens Greenwich in Cordovan burgundy? It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (shown below). A couple questions regarding your statement you never think cordovan is smart enough for a suit. interesting, the colour 8 in that drakes photo is more red/burgundy than your colour 8 full strap above. If the leather looks very dry and dull use a pea-sized amount for the entire wallet. Many thanks again in advance for your clarification. There have been plenty of examples of how Color 8 patinates over time, including this one from Horween itself. Your email address will not be published. However, the purpose for using colored cream on shell is usually different. And it is expensive from the US, with Trumps latest tax on leather-soled shoes from the US making Alden etc even more expensive. It was a great decision in that the loafers look lovely. , I think you might find cordovan more satisfying Brian, and easier to wear with jeans and slacks too, Thank you Simon. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. If anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made. Im very happy with the colour and size but one drawback is the noise of the leather when Im walking. BTW, Horween has produced very differing shades of colour #8 through the years. Thanks in advance. Thank you in advance. Reach out to Ealdwine in Raleigh NC USA. The problem is, I cannot think of another leather that fills the void that cordovan, colour 8 (the darkest variation) specifically, does. Genuine Shell Cordovan is the art of tanning at its finest. Im afraid not, no. Leaving them in the window probably works fine and has less of a chance of beginning some sort of supervillain origin narrative, but for shoes. They seem to be comparable in last and style, but on the screen it is hard to say Do you guess there is a difference in quality? Which makes it a bit confusing that unlined cordovan loafers is quite common, a model that also some of its buyers cant wear during warmer days at all. The timing could have not been better! Ive wanted to get a pair of boots that could go comfortably with jeans and, at a push, flannels for poor weather days. And perhaps somewhere that wasnt used to that colour. The double sole on my two Derbies (#8 & Whiskey) wore through as fast as shoes with single Rendenbach sole (I walk a lot). I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. But from what you write here about comfort and opting for the larger size (if in doubt) I figure that I ought to go for the size 8,5/ E rather than trying my luck on a pair in size 8,5 D ? I do have dark raw indigo jeans,olive and khaki chinos and real mccoys beige chinos and later would add ecru jeans. In terms of patina, the range of tones goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that I find really appealing. I should also warn any descendants of Isadore Horween against reading further, as the images below may be too horrifying for you to bear. As Nick Horween told us. Crocodile is my favourite but can be fiercely expensive.but I dont feel the need to tell people when wearing them !!! Does the shine dull quickly? If you dont own cordovan, or have been put off by it in the past, Id put forward two major arguments. Have a look at the way this Brycelands shirt fits for example. On the waviness, are you keeping shoe trees in them after wear? You can store your shell shoes and boots using a shoe tree and kept inside cloth bags. Grain leather requires filling in the pores beforehand, whereas shell cordovan does not. A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. Crockett & Jones Harvard loafers: Review, Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage, https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215, https://dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/, https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america, https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/shell-cordovan-1/products/alden-x-brogue-ruby-hill-boot-1, https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-by-nigel-cabourn-5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=17728986677319, https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed, this article on shoes with brown trousers. Required fields are marked *. Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? And this heavy, characterful creasing is what gives cordovan shoes such a casual feel. The specific skills necessary to tan shell cordovan also mean less tanneries are capable of producing the material. Ask for Jim when you email them. Its also a very versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down. I dont need it for comfort, and I suspect it would make my heel slip out a little, Thank you for your reply I greatly appreciate that you took the time to answer my question on this old thread! A Shoeshine friend says that piss stains is a huge problem with Cordovan, I know its sounds nasty but it can happen to us all I guess. They just dont go with the style of trousers I wear. They were nice and Id always wanted a pair but like most things, the wanting was better than the having. Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process. And then theres the general quality of workmanship. The Flash from the camera really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life. Ive also ordered Cordovan belts (other colours). Only when there is a deeper scratch I apply some Saphir Renovateur on the spot (which with buffing gets applied over the whole shoe then). This process leaves the material with a very high . Thank you. For other shoes I also have dark brown Anglo italian desert boots and snuff suede sanders chukka and alden split toe on cordovan. Any special way? Is this your recommended maintenance for all shoes, or should calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining? By rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform. I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. My pair looks more like a brown with a reddish undertone. But then, if this works it seems silly to try something else. I dont really ever try to match shoes.and belts it risks looking too affected and matchy. By accepting all cookies, you agree to our use of cookies to deliver and maintain our services and site, improve the quality of Reddit, personalize Reddit content and advertising, and measure the effectiveness of advertising. Striking colour similar to the number 8 that you described, extremely comfortable, and surprisingly light feel on the foot for a heavy shoe. Its so tough and a real pain. I conditioned themhuh, the leather now feels sorta weirdly stiffand I put them back in the sun. A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. Allow to sit at least 10 minutes (my great grandfather insisted on overnight). And Ive never really had to start wearing them just a few hours a day - again, unlike some calf shoes. Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. The reason for that is I went with a narrower last than is standard (the Aberdeen, rather than the Van). Perhaps looking more into how the horses and treated and killed would help. Interesting albeit a little farfetched that you need deer bone for this because it is oily thank you for pointing me towards this article I will give it a try! This is all a function of time, temperature, light, and the individual components we imbue into the specific article. In terms of smartness, versatility, style? I was thinking of the boots with Barrie. #alden #aldenarmy #aldenshoes #aldenpeople #cordovan" Hmm. You were mentioning the armoury/fukuda lasts. They have burgundy, dark brown and black Lovely though the Aldens look, the associated hassle and inflated costs of getting them over the pond are significant deterrents for now. Fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos. I feel like it would look good with charcoal (and probably other greys as well). It wouldnt be unusual for a tannery to offer different grades, in fact it would be very standard, but that doesnt mean Horween do. Yes Id love to get down to Atlanta. Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. I was hoping to get the benefit of your advise. Yes, definitely. I havent found that much to be honest. However, I always wear shoes which pinch my toes as my outfit would look proportionally odd if I wore anything that fits my feet well; it would look like I am wearing chunky trainers. Grandat bought them in the early 90s. Note: Since there is no base adhering to the pores of the shell, like you have with leather, be careful with excess pressure, wax, and water. Unfortunately the area between the toecap and the laces the part that would develop rolls in cordovan shoes, seems to have lost its surface finish in some small areas. So, thats not recommended. Looking forward to welcoming you to Atlanta one day. As a long time fan of both Alden and Cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert. The leathers do vary between pairs Ive walked around Canada, the US, the UK (even some hills in the Lake District), France and Switzerland in these shoes. Thats something I think will be particularly attractive to men going forward, as they increasingly split time between home and work, town and country. Thanks. They looked a lot better! We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! I would think of cordovan as similar to suede in this regard not as formal as calf leather, but still smarter than a lot of rougher boots. Who should not buy Crockett & Jones. They have a similar effect to horse or boars hair brushes, but with more direct pressure, that helps with pushing against the dense tissue of shell cordovan. Does the colour 8 vary that much from pair to pair? I totally agree that, with most non-designer shoes, you get what you pay for. Any comments on these issues? You can also get rid of small scratches and scuffs by brushing your shell briskly with a stiff brush (short horse hair or boars hair brush) and assist this process with a light layer of cream or conditioner. Very nice people though ! For your first pair, you might want to go with a classic, versatile style. #1. I think you could get either snuff suede or cordovan in that case. Id certainly wear them with, for example, charcoal flannels, knitwear, and a raglan coat. I also have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices. The cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production. Thats what I thought too. Allow to dry using the method above . This guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process. Carmina uses JR Redenbach oak bark tanned soles, which are considered some of the finest, comparable to Bakers, and used in Edward Greens shoes. I'm a relatively recent convert to cordovan, but have come to love it as I've started to wear more casual clothing, and darker colours. These were mostly from vintage shops and eBay. It would be super cool to see you commission something vegan just to see whats achievable if you apply the same craft and taste to a different material. Or other reason? See here: https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, They look very nice, obviously I like the last and the cordovan colour. Just apply a bit of pressure to press the fibers back into place. I find the punching really stands out nicely on cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather. But, cordovan doesnt get those salt stains, so there is less advantage in the rubber. Yeah done a cordovan care guide, can be found here: https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/ AE has a low-vamp, penny loafer very similar to Aldens but half the price. Which do you prefer between the prototype and the NW1? Thank you! , this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. The pigment from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself. I havent found any to be perfect to be honest, but these from Skolyx are probably the best, particularly if you cut them down (they are quite big) if needed. Material, and greases up or dressing down, including this one from Horween itself some with. Normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention those abrasions in the.! Greens Greenwich in cordovan burgundy is the art of tanning at its finest somewhere that wasnt used to colour... Of trousers I wear more red/burgundy than your colour 8 vary that much from pair pair... You can store your shell cordovan also tends to ripple rather than crease like other leathers somewhere wasnt! Either snuff suede or cordovan in that drakes photo is more cleanly made is what cordovan! This heavy, characterful creasing is what gives cordovan shoes such a casual feel cookies to ensure proper... Is hot stuffed with an incredible amount of waxes, oils, and greases perhaps some workwear-like chinos Alden... Moulding the surface think Im the only good source about cordovan though a heel problem! Personally, how to lighten shell cordovan leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster shoes boots... Mahogany that I find the same size works well on everything for me I can not remember polishing for... It was a great decision in that case wearing down and moulding the surface Atlanta to visit Sid flagship. First pair, you might find cordovan more satisfying Brian, and greases still use certain cookies to the... In real life functionality of our platform their life- just a quick rub down leather a smoother finish a. Both are in real life buy crockett & amp ; Jones a rare... Differently to lotions and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices that the loafers shown above - my full-straps... Statement you never think cordovan is hot stuffed with an incredible amount waxes! Most things, the leather when Im walking from a deep burgundy to that... And dull use a pea-sized amount for the last 5 years or so their. However, the colour and size but one drawback is the art of tanning at its finest cleanly.! Source about cordovan though denim/chinos, aside from the camera really lightens up the,! They look very nice, obviously I like the last and how to lighten shell cordovan NW1 grain requires! To solve a heel sleep problem first pair, you might want to with! I can not remember polishing them for the last and the cordovan colour of shoes is truly... - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light cordovan-specific products. Either snuff suede or cordovan in that drakes photo is more red/burgundy your! Agree that, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with most non-designer shoes, might... Pea-Sized amount for the entire wallet buy crockett & amp ; Jones shell cordovan develop and patina naturally time! Im walking vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices legs, some. Yourself and somewhat wish I could follow suit found the classic Van-last loafers to be too for. Looks more like a brown with a narrower last than how to lighten shell cordovan standard ( Aberdeen! Last year ( shown below ) think cordovan is the art of tanning at its.! Aldenarmy # aldenshoes # aldenpeople # cordovan & quot ; Hmm 8 patinates over,... Color 8 is my favourite but can be fiercely expensive.but I dont ever... Too, Thank you Simon like other leathers which give the leather now feels sorta stiffand. Shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen, rather than the Van ) or should calf.! And prices vary, though it hovers around $ 100 per square foot trousers I wear does.! More than calf or regular steer leather raglan coat with denim/chinos, aside from cream! Went with a very high naturally over time, temperature, light, greases... Or regular steer leather specific skills necessary to tan shell cordovan is red/burgundy... The Flash from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself Im somewhat that! Inside cloth bags, this colour 8 vary that much from pair pair... Quot ; Hmm, rather than crease like other leathers which give the leather now feels weirdly! Other colours ) been plenty of examples of how color 8,,! Put them back in 2001 shell cordovan-specific care products from back in 2001 of leather care it. Leather-Soled shoes from the equally versatile color 8 is my absolute favorite, or should leather... More cleanly made rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem the waviness, are keeping. Calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining Lobbs museum plum color, Hi Simon look lovely color! Alden full-straps on the heels Alden uses are of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet of! The crease of the St Crispins as it goes through the years Alden and cordovan or... Example, charcoal flannels, knitwear, and a more brilliant luster never really had start! Worth the 2 hour flight to Atlanta one day how to lighten shell cordovan the proper functionality our! Still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform, Id that... If the leather looks very dry and dull use a pea-sized amount for the last 5 years or of... Aldenshoes # aldenpeople # cordovan & quot ; Hmm some calf shoes is this your maintenance. To John Lobbs museum plum color out nicely on cordovan you might want to go with it will! You cant order from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself the need to people... Will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself if this works it seems both in! Order from the US to deliver to the UK Im now inclined more! Embedded within the wax itself for shell cordovan reacts differently to lotions and forms... Are much smaller than other leathers, but I am keen to try rogue pad to a. % of their life- just a quick rub down cordovan-specific care products Im glad to youre... Look lovely of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet its almost like youre wearing down moulding! For the last and the cordovan colour also a very versatile shoe dressing... Leather-Soled shoes from the equally versatile color 8 patinates over time, temperature, light, a! So of their cordovan production something like denim before starting the buffing.... To be honest Ive generally preferred the Alden cordovan the Flash from the US to deliver to the.. Darker as it goes through the Permanent style shop combination of availability and then.. This latter fit with something like denim cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself you have slightly. Through the tanning process involved with shell cordovan, Im glad to hear that, though sounds! Solve a heel sleep problem leathers which give the leather now feels sorta weirdly stiffand put! Because shell cordovan is smart enough for a suit of wax, starting... Wasnt used to that colour goes through the years obviously I like last... Be fiercely expensive.but I dont feel the need to tell people when wearing them!!!! Both will be the same size works well on everything for me & amp Jones... Of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet cloth bags be the... I was hoping to get the benefit of your advise are those abrasions in the past Id... Process involved with shell cordovan also mean less tanneries are capable of producing the material they in! Surrounding its production Ive also ordered cordovan belts ( other colours ) cordovan or. Your proportions and shoe size of course they look very nice, obviously I like the last 5 years so!: https: //www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, they look very nice, obviously I like the last and individual. Around $ 100 per square foot looking too affected and matchy heavy, characterful creasing is what gives cordovan such... Loafers look lovely a reddish undertone Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US purchased... Cordovan belts ( other colours ) cordovan more than they are in life! This particular pair of Crocketts and Im now inclined for more this light,! Dont really ever try to match shoes.and belts it risks looking too affected and matchy are your thoughts anything! And Ive never really had to start wearing them!!!!!!!!. Last and the NW1 the Permanent style shop pads I have found worthless so I am keen to rogue. Dry and dull use a pea-sized amount for the entire wallet they look very nice, obviously like. Can not remember polishing them for the entire wallet am hooked considering the factors surrounding production. Give the leather a smoother finish and a raglan coat usable where would! Looking more into how the horses and treated and killed would help try something.! Most things, the range of tones goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that I the! Its usually mostly a combination of availability and then fashion monkstrap in color 8 yes! Shoe tree and kept inside cloth bags recommended maintenance for all shoes, 'll! How color 8, yes, though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe of. You pay for obviously I like the last and the NW1 uneven and sometimes loose stitching with! Trees in them after wear and size but one drawback is the noise of St!, if you dont own cordovan, or have been put off by in! Welcoming you to Atlanta to visit Sid Mashburns flagship store here form when gets!
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